madrid guide

great food, great coffee, great shops

In March, I visited Madrid for the first time in almost 20 years. Back then, I stayed for a night and remember only Plaza Mayor, pimientos de Padrón on a street terrace on a summer evening, and seeing El Greco in the Prado. That was in 2008. Seeing Madrid this year felt like visiting a new city. Four days, so eventful they felt like ten.

Every morning, we had coffee in the neighbourhoods of Letras or Chueca, enjoying the bright spring light on the narrow streets and the almond blossoms. We browsed the shops in search of books, music, shoes, crafts, and tinned fish. We had vino de Jerez in old bars and ate exceptionally well at traditional restaurants and bistros. We had a walk in the just-awakened botanical garden, and saw a beautiful textile exhibition by chance. We went on a two-day trip to Seville, which will be the material for one of my next posts.

And some news before we start: this post is paywalled. I put a lot of resources into researching, visiting the places (and paying for the service) that I then can or cannot recommend, and finally, into writing the posts. Part of my posts will still be open to everyone, but the ones that require a lot of work will be reserved for the paying subscribers. I think that a good piece of information and writing is worth the price of one cup of coffee (where I live).

Here is my extensive list of places to eat, drink, shop, and see in Madrid.

Restaurants/bistros

Cuenllas

Surrounded by Spanish families in the back dining room, we had one of the best dinners of the trip: mojama (salt-cured tuna glistering like jewels), jamón, chipirrónes en su tinta with rice (baby squid in its ink), revuelto de patatas (eggs+potatoes) with leeks and blood sausage. Lemon cake and cheese cake to finish (can’t decide which was better). The service was excellent.