I used to think Trieste was unexciting compared to other Italian cities. It reminded me of teenage shopping trips with my parents, when the city was still recovering from a decline in visitors from neighboring countries following the split of Yugoslavia. It took me a couple of trips to start appreciating, loving even, this multinational, multilingual Austro-Hungarian-Italian town, a unique mix of cultures, languages, and foods that had developed so beautifully over the past years.
Since I rediscovered it, I’ve been visiting Trieste often, and have assembled an extensive list of places to eat and shop. It comes as a dose of sunshine, sea, krapfen, food shopping, Mittel-European-meets-Italian vibes, historic cafes and bookshops, and Italian-meets-Slovenian food, very beneficial for one’s well-being. Closing (or continuing) the loop my parents started in the seventies.
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Pastries, coffee, gelato:
Pasticceria La Bomboniera - Bomboniera is the first place I go to whenever I come to Trieste, without exception. If it’s not January or February, I take one apricot marmalade-filled krapfen (doughnut) and a croissant (the filling chosen on a whim). If it’s January or February, it means it’s fritole season, and then I take a krapfen and two fritolas (one with chocolate, one with pistachio).
Caffe San Marco - Caffe San Marco is a historic cafe (dating back to the early 20th century) with marble tables, stuccos, golden brass lamps, decent coffee, and a good selection of teas and cakes. I enjoy the atmosphere and the fact that it’s also a bookshop (so you can have your coffee and your cake while leafing through local authors such as Claudio Magris or Umberto Saba. There’s also a small selection of books in English.)
Caffe Tommaseo - Opened in 1830, Caffe Tommaseo is the oldest cafe in the city- frequented by the likes of Italo Svevo, Umberto Saba, and Claudio Magris (who allegedly wrote his Danube right there). It’s a grand, Viennese-style cafe, but the atmosphere is casual- you can sit for coffee, breakfast (like I did for my birthday once- eggs and pancakes and fruit), or lunch.
Gelatodamare - I’ve tried several Google reviews-recommended gelaterias in Trieste, but Gelatodamare is the only one I can recommend.
Bread:
Spaccio Pani - Trieste is a lot about traditional cafes and pastry shops, but if you’re looking for something fresher, Spaccio Pani has a great selection of sourdough bread, pastries, and sandwiches (check their Instagram, the sandwiches look so good). Last time I was there, they didn’t have the maritozzo, so the offer must be expanding. If you like specialty coffee, then you know Italy isn’t THE place to have it, but here you can (also it’s a nice and cozy open space to sit).
Pagna Panificio Artigianale - Another good place for sourdough bread! And if you’re in for the aperitivo and cichetti made with proper bread, this is the place. I especially like their focaccia.
Lunch/dinner/aperitivo:
For a fish lunch: Trattoria Nerodiseppia. This is where I go when I want to treat myself to a fish lunch, and then I always order a pasta, a fritto misto (a plate of various fried fish, prawns, and vegetables), and a dessert, because they make very good sweets as well. Booking is essential, especially on Saturdays.
For the best pizza: Al Civicosei. Four out of five times in Trieste, I book a table for lunch at Al Civicosei. It’s the best pizza in town, and one of my favorites in general. They make great basic pizzas, but do give their specials a chance. The service is friendly and welcoming, and I always enjoy being there. Aim for the terrace if it’s summer.
For traditional Friulian food: Trattoria Mara. This is a place to try the traditional, rustic Friulian cuisine- a mix of Italian and neighboring Slovenian. Don’t miss the frico - a thick pancake made of cheese and potatoes, and the cjalsons - dumplings filled with herbs and covered with butter and grated cheese or breadcrumbs.
For Italian bistro-style: Mimi e Coccotte, if you’re into playful Italian food and a laid-back, lively atmosphere. Last time I was there, I ordered the gnocco fritto (they call it something else, I forgot how, but essentially it’s a fried dough) with mortadella, the bollito (cooked meat) salad, pasta, and steak tartare. All good. They also have a list of natural wines.
For cichetti: Al Ciketo. Cichetti are traditional Venetian bites usually in the form of little open-faced sandwiches topped with everything from cold cuts to anchovies, vegetables, baccala mantecato (whipped salt cod), and cheese. They are typically served in traditional bacari taverns, along with a glass of wine, often while standing. Al Ciketo is a very popular Triestine bar, always busy during aperitivo time, with a colorful selection of cichetti at fair prices.
Food shopping:
SET- Sappori Eccellenti - This is the best place to shop for Friulian delicacies in Trieste, but I also like to sit there for a plate of cold cuts and cheese. Each product is locally sourced, and here you can find the best prosciutto as well as the best soft frant cheese (with pears and poppy seeds), smoked trout, baccala mantecato, ready-made frico, cjalsons, etc. The terrace is a nice place for people-watching.
CavanaDue Frutta e Verdura - I’m not sure everyone is as interested in shopping for fruit and vegetables while traveling as I am, but if you are, this is the place. I always buy something in season that I typically cannot find back at home (such as salicornia or cime di rapa, or various types of radicchio). They also have the best taralli from Puglia (southern Italian wheat-based crackers). My favourites are: tiny braids with an almond in the middle, cipolla (caramelised onion), and finocchio (fennel).
Palato Salsamenteria - This is the place to buy another traditional Friulian cheese- Jamar from Zidarič farm, made from raw cow’s milk and aged in humid karst caves (it’s very spicy and rich in flavour). You can also find some of the best Italian rice there, a selection of mustards, pickles, olives, and ready-made Italian delicacies. If you’re in for an aperitivo, they serve good sandwiches.
Alimentazione B.M. - Another good deli with a selection of cheese, Italian chocolate, proper pasta, etc.
Other shopping:
Delikatessen - This is where I shop for vintage baubles each December, when the shop overflows with Christmas ornaments and even spills some out on the street. Other than that, they regularly have a couple of vintage lighting pieces I’d like to own, chairs and lounge chairs, vintage postcards, etc.
Mismas vintage clothing - Right next to Delikatessen. I used to glance in from the street until this February, when I visited Trieste with friends and found three pieces that I wore countless times since then: a mint grey 80s coat, a black wool 80s blazer, and a fabulous silver ring (one of my favourites).
VUD - A beautiful workshop and design shop that crafts wooden furniture. Mostly tables and shelves, but there’s also a selection of VUD cutting boards, nice chairs, and small house items from other brands. Even if you’re not there to order a table made by measure, it’s nice to go in and see Filippo at work in the back, and Rosa curating the shop and welcoming customers warmly in the front.
Libreria Umberto Saba - I discovered this beautiful antique bookstore founded by the Triestine poet Umberto Saba only recently. A vast collection of antique volumes fills the unusually tall bookshelves, lining the walls up to the ceiling, and curving into the back in a very seductive way, like a labyrinth. The store was reopened in January after a year of renovations.
Drogheria Toso - This old-fashioned drogheria sells sponges, candies, candles, ropes, soaps, and insecticides. I’m puzzled by how it remains in business with this very specific selection in the age of modern drugstores and supermarkets, yet it does. It’s regularly filled with Triestines buying candies from the large glass jars. I love it.
Libreria Minerva - Another beautiful bookstore with curved wooden gallery supported by green iron bars, and ladders sliding along the tall bookshelves. The book selection here is more contemporary, and you can also find a selection of English titles.
This is my list- use it, enjoy it, and let me know if there’s any place you’d add to yours! I’ll keep this post open for growth.
This post makes me want to visit Trieste!